Old Dock House, Essex

Inspiration for this review called for Jimmy Buffett and a bold Hawaiian shirt. Unseasonably hot pre-summer 90-degree temperatures set the tone for the outdoor bar at the Old Dock House Restaurant and Marina in Essex. As we picked our way along the walkway from the parking lot, the sight of a small boat, built into the structure, had us humming the theme from Gilligan’s Island as we approached the cheerful barn red building.

The main bar area, housed in an add-on shed, is so enclosed it was hard to tell we were outside, but for the light breeze that traveled through. The explosion of nautical themed debris strewn throughout the barroom invoked a Florida Keys flashback for Kim, who opted for a Shock Top from the list of nine draft beers. Though she started with the standby vodka and grapefruit, the atmosphere provided Pam with a craving for rum or coconut or anything tropical. Satellite radio pushed her over the edge with the song, Escape (the Pina Colada song).

This is another we will have to categorize as one of our museum finds. The décor appears to be a salvage operation in progress; odd posts and lintels serve aesthetic, if not structural, purpose. Randomly scattered fishing buoys and markers bob from walls and ceiling in a conglomeration of color. Moored on shelves, model sailing vessels pick up breezes in their sails, using their most effective lines. White enameled fluted barn lights dangle over the bar of distressed hardwood, seemingly recovered from a bowling alley on a sunken ship. Another side bar of the same construction runs the entire length of the room and could easily seat 20, with an unhindered view through wide screened openings. An abandoned bird's nest is inconspicuously tucked in the safety of the eaves, while nearby, a red rooster observes quietly; too lazy to crow for day.

We took our time drinking in the surroundings (and drinking in the surroundings) while the bartender, Debbie, told us more about the Old Dock. Originally built as a wharf in 1810 for Lake Champlain boat traffic delivering goods from Albany and New York City, the Old Dock House served as a tea room in the 1930’s. The restaurant has been in business for 30 years, run by Black Bart Bailey from the 1960s to 1984. It was restored in the mid 1980s by Joanne and Jack Halpin, who added the boat slips. It's still owned by Jack Halpin, but has been operated by Steve McKenna for the last five years. The bar, restaurant and marina are open from May through October, seven days a week, serving lunch at 11:30 a.m. and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. The bar remains open until midnight. Happy Hour is daily, from 4 to 6 p.m., with draft beer and mixed drink specials. The bartenders seemed willing and able to mix up just about any drink you might not even know you want.

Three dining areas accommodate 150 to 175 people outside and another 85 inside. The exterior bar can handle another 50 patrons.  This prompted us to inquire about parking, given the small parking area we had utilized. Landlubbers we be, we overlooked the surrounding dock space, readily able to hold 30 boats and potentially more. Additional car parking can be found across the street from the Old Dock House in a public lot or on the nearby streets.

Each dining area is unique in form, seating, and table design. The open and spacious interior dining room with soaring beam ceiling contains the other half of the exterior bar, with stool seating for eight. Large top-hinged awning windows gaped wide on this day as the lake breeze passed lazily through, affording a view of the ferry landing. Panoramas of Lake Champlain and the Adirondack and Green Mountains are visible through a wall of glass doors, or on the wraparound patio. In a profusion of red, tables of an assortment of materials - wrought iron mesh, one of granite, and some of wood - are scattered inside and out, with chairs of wood, plastic, and more wrought iron. Large canopies cover many of the tables. Between patio and bar, under the shade of maples and away from the sun’s burning gaze, several booths afford seating for 10, with benches at least eight feet in length.


A bar shift change put Debbie on our side of the bar for a quick drink. She introduced us to her replacement, Jack, and then off she sped across the lake on her jet ski, leaving us longing to commute that way. Pam and Jack got right to work on a suitable beverage.  After establishing inventory availability, Pam chose a blend of mango vodka, coconut rum and a generous splash of pineapple juice, topped off with club soda. The drink we dubbed the Essex Escape - refreshing and fruity but not too sweet - and easily mispronounced the Essex Excape.

Accommodations can be found close by, either at the Essex Inn or Cabins by the Lake.  WiFi is available and phone service abounds. Don’t forget to check in on Facebook when you visit, or “like” the Old Dock on its Facebook page.

Located right next to the Charlotte-Essex Ferry landing, the Old Dock House is a perfect escape, whether arriving by car, boat or ferry. If for no other reason, go for the view. The season is short, however. By November, the Old Dock is probably hanging in the Caribbean, relaxing and rejuvenating.

Essex Inn, Essex

The town of Essex has a coastal New England charm, from the centuries old brick homes and diagonal street parking, to the waterfront buildings in colors to rival the Atlantic coast. The Essex Inn, grand in comparative scale to the federal and Greek revival style architecture that defines the hamlet, is the centerpiece of Essex. With a full-length front porch, imposing white columns and freshly painted yellow siding, the Essex Inn’s cheerful facade is warm and inviting.

Management of the 200-year-old Essex Inn was undertaken by Gladys and Josh Archer in 2010 after it was meticulously renovated and restored in a year-and-a-half-long process by Rick and Karen Dalton, who initially purchased it to house the College for Every Student (CFES) organization. The inn has taken on an authentic, historic appearance that feels timeless and original. Wood is artfully employed in countless hues and textures, with rough sawn board walls, a low, exposed beam ceiling, and softly glowing wide plank floors, finished with hand-forged replica nails. Wavy glass windows and a two-sided brick fireplace partition the tavern room from the more formal dining area. Furnishings exhibit a distinct Adirondack flair in the interior design of Delevan's Tavern. Furnishings contrast smooth polished wood with heavy handcrafted rustic creations of twisted roots, sticks and antlers. A thick pine slab bar, with seating for just four, overlooks rustic birch bark cabinetry housing the bar inventory. Wait staff, all of whom are bar trained, scurry in and out of the miniscule confines, each preparing drinks for his or her own orders. Table seating in the tavern is reminiscent of a town meeting place where one could argue politics, local and national, expound on the weather in front of the fireplace, or share gossip of local flavor.

Energetically revitalized and renewed with enthusiasm, Gladys and Josh have revived the essence of community and camaraderie within the gracious walls of the tavern as a meeting place for townspeople and visitors alike. From themed gatherings and dinner specials to Tuesday Martini Merdi, fresh and innovative ideas flourish. Gladys and Josh have been creative in making the Essex Inn the place to be in Essex all year round. Community Happy Hour on Thursdays from 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. has become an increasingly popular mainstay for the Essex Inn. Just last week, they featured a Kentucky Derby party touted to be in the finest fashion. They have offered a variety of wine tastings and cooking classes. On Fridays during the summer, the inn will feature music outside in the garden patio area, and in July and August, “afternoon tea”, encouraging a luncheon on the grass, parasols optional.

 Though diminutive in size, the bar bulges with creative capacity. A hybrid of two of her favorites, Pam couldn’t resist ordering the Margarita-tini, which was essentially a margarita in a martini glass, but painstakingly prepared with fresh ingredients, muddled with the stubby end of an antler by Alex, our server-of-the-moment. The Sinnfully Essex is a house specialty made with Chambord, vodka and a splash of cranberry juice, embellished with a sugar rim and brandy-soaked cherry. Specialty drinks are priced at around $9. Kim chose the Ubu ale from the modest but well-selected bottled beer choices that also include Stella Artois, Magic Hat, Guinness, Lake Placid IPA and Redbridge, all priced from $3 to $5. The wine selection is well-rounded with several options and ranges from house wines at $7 a glass; $27 a bottle to an assortment of reds and whites at $8 to $13 glass; $30 to $155 bottle.

The Essex Inn is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. The inn is open to guests daily with seven rooms available. If you're just having cocktails at the bar, you should have an opportunity to meet all of the staff. Each of them seemed ready and willing to try something new or share their favorite drink recipe. Gladys is a vibrant, energetic host, eager to share her obvious affection and future plans for the Essex Inn. We did not have the opportunity to meet chef and partner Josh, who seems to remain behind the scenes, ensuring that all is well managed in the kitchen. For an Adirondack experience with a New England feel, visit the Essex Inn on the Adirondack Coast, nestled between Lake Champlain and the Adirondack mountains. Try something new and be sure to wander around inside and out. One visit will not be enough.