The Ole Barn, Inlet

It’s so BIG. If that isn’t your first impression when you enter The Ole Barn on Limekiln Lake Road in Inlet, then you must be from Texas or Montana. Bearing a ranch theme with wagon wheels, oversized ceiling fans and rough pine booths and walls, it feels like a bar that should be on the premises of a dude ranch, not the stand-alone bar that it is. Nearby Limekiln and Eighth Lake state campgrounds bring many patrons, but it is the snowmobilers in the winter that fill it to its capacity of 300. It reminded us of summer camp. Or what we imagine summer camp must be like.

The square bar, not quite centered in the bar area, easily seats 25 patrons. The wood simulated laminate top with red padded edges and matching backless stools welcomed us to sit and observe. A model train waited at its station overhead with a painted backdrop depicting a village scene. The train wasn’t running while we were there, but 350 feet of track take it throughout the restaurant, its cars sporting billboards in miniature advertising local businesses. Benched tables fill two walls and several round picnic tables try to fill some of the large space near the entrance. A collection of hundreds of caps covers a good portion of the plank ceiling. The spacious dining room is separated from the bar by a partition of booths.

Though beer taps can be seen behind the bar, the Ole Barn currently serves beer in cans only, in about a dozen varieties. As Pam looked over the diverse liquor selection behind the bar, she observed a few PVC pipes. Upon inquiry, we learned from our bartender, Allison, that they are portals for the Beer Can Express, the first we’ve ever seen or even heard about. Volunteering a demonstration, Allison explained that the cans are deposited in those pipes and are whisked off, bank tube style, for storage in a large silo located outside of the main building. There’s a fine example of Adirondack ingenuity!

With four televisions and a winter-based clientele, the Ole Barn is frequented by NASCAR fans.  Annually, the Old Barn hosts Zippy’s Crusade for Kids, a charity snowmobile ride put on by Greg and Nan Zipadelli. A two-day event to raise funds for kids in need, the fundraiser features food, music, an auction, and a celebrity autograph session sometimes attended by such NASCAR icons as Tony Stewart. The 2013 event will be held on January 25 and 26.

The Ole Barn offers live music during the winter for their snowmobile patrons. A pool table and lottery scratch tickets complete the entertainment offerings. They also host weddings, banquets and private parties. Family owned since 1967, and currently by Ron and Kathy Hausen, the restaurant specializes in homemade and Italian specials, among others, moderately priced. On the lighter side, salads, burgers, sandwiches and pizza are featured. More substantial entrees “from the barnyard” include ribs, NY strip, and chicken. “From the pond” you can select haddock, clams or calamari.

The Ole Barn has a Happy Hour daily from 3 p.m. until 5 p.m. featuring $3.00 well drinks, domestic beers for $2.00 and draft beer, when available, for $1.50.  They are open year-round, but close between Columbus Day and Thanksgiving in the fall, and during mud season in the spring. They open at noon and close at 10 p.m. or later. They are open Thanksgiving Day, but closed on Christmas.

If you’re looking for a quiet place for an early afternoon drink and a bite to eat, stop by the Ole Barn during the summer months.  For a hopping place to go after a good snowstorm, the Ole Barn might not be so vast and quiet.

P-2's, Tupper Lake

The brick building, trim and neat, stands just feet from the sidewalk on Main Street in Tupper Lake. P-2’s Irish Pub, illuminated in red and green neon, replaces its former moniker, Al’s Lounge. Inside, a suit of armor standing guard at the pool table silently observes our entrance. Dimly lighted with amber pendants and recessed spotlights, the interior’s Irish pub characteristics gradually come to light. The curved bar a rich, dark wood with red padded front, shows signs of its age and character. Old cigarette burns mar the top, scars of forgotten conversations and decades of good times. Arrow back bar stools match the studded green faux leather walls, padded for comfort. Tin ceiling, oak woodwork, worn wood floor and round, solid oak pub tables surrounded by sturdy backless stools all lend warmth, character and charm in this intimate space.

Our last stop on day one of the Happy Hour in the High Peaks 2012 Summit Tour, we found P-2’s Irish Pub living up to its motto: The Place to be in the Adirondacks. Two couples were eating, drinking and relaxing at a pub table to the side. A half dozen women clustered at the end of the bar, laughing, drinking, and engrossed in conversation appeared to be well known to Debbie, the bartender. Debbie greeted us right away, ready to take our orders. Beer selection was a no-brainer for Kim, who spotted among the eight draft handles a Plucky Rooster (Plattsburgh), as yet untapped in her repertoire, and with an interesting history. Tired after four hours of pub crawling, Pam fell into her usual safety net – a vodka and grapefruit.

One by one, people just kept arriving. Clientele is mixed between locals and visitors, but you might find it difficult to discern the two. Behind the bar, Debbie was friendly and attentive to both. A local named Dan summed it up as a regular pub with good people, good staff, good music and open to visitors. Pam accosted two couples from Canada as they prepared to leave on their motorcycles. They shared their thoughts about their first visit to P-2’s, reporting good food, friendly service and added that Debbie was extra helpful with information about the area. We spoke with a number of regulars who had nothing but praise for P-2’s and its staff. When we started asking questions, Debbie pointed out the owner, a woman gradually making her way down the bar, stopping to greet every patron along the way. We were told she’d eventually get to us. We were talking to Henry, our bar neighbor (and the Patriot Chef), as Michelle approached. Henry has created a line of seasonings and sauces, which P-2’s uses and Michelle wholeheartedly endorses. Thanks for the Loyalty sample Henry!

We finally introduced ourselves and our purpose to P-2’s owner, who filled us in on the pub’s history and took us on a tour. Al’s Lounge was founded in 1966 by Joseph “P-2” LeBlanc, but its history really dates back to 1949, when it was known as Ivan’s Lounge. Six years ago it was acquired by Joseph’s daughter, Michelle LeBlanc Blair, and revamped into P-2’s Irish pub, named in honor of her father.

P-2’s has since expanded with the opening of the Franklin Dairy Music Hall, a converted barn located behind the pub.  The barn was home to the Franklin Dairy until the 1980s and had been used for storage. Following much restoration and renovation, P-2’s hosted its first concert this past July. Deemed a smashing success, the old dairy aroma was replaced with the essence of stale beer!

It’s a small pub but seems able to handle any amount of activity. The full size bar seats 10 to 12. Six tables accommodate at least two dozen more patrons, and P-2’s still has room for a pool table and darts. Two large screen televisions are enough to follow your favorite game, but not be consumed by it. Team photos and collages attest to P-2’s community spirit. They seem to sponsor a team for everything! Open WiFi is available to customers. An ATM is on site, possibly for Quick Draw enthusiasts, but Visa and MasterCard are also accepted. Parking is available in the adjoining lot, or on the street, and P-2’s is located just one block from the snowmobile trail.

P-2’s is open year round, opening at 2 p.m. in the summer and closing at 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. They are closed on Sunday. In the winter, they open at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Happy Hour is daily from 4 to 7 p.m all year long. Music is a staple at P-2’s with open mic night most Thursdays, featured artists in the pub on Friday and Saturday, the Outdoor Summer Music Series under the tent, and more in the works in the music hall! See their website and Facebook page for up-to-date listings.

Drink specials range from the signature Blue Margarita to a P-2’s style Black & Tan, with spontaneous drink options in between. And it’s the only place in town that serves Guinness on tap. In addition to the draft beers, an interesting array of bottled and canned varieties rounds out the rather nice selection. All of their food is rumored to be the best, but their chicken wings, chicken breast dippers and sweet potato fries are favored among some of the patrons on hand. Pricing is quite modest, as most menu items are priced under $10.00.

Offering outstanding service, loyal and happy customers, modest prices, and a musical hotspot, we found P-2’s claim as The Place to be in the Adirondacks to be accurate. At least in the Tupper Lake region. 

Rick's Restaurant and Pub, Willsboro

Located in what we call an “Adirondack plaza”, but known as the Willsborough Business Center, Rick's Restaurant and Pub is unique in more than its location. Our definition of an Adirondack plaza, and we have encountered several of these business centers in our travels in the Park, is a building that houses multiple businesses but not all are accessed directly from the curb. The Willsborough Business Center is home to a pharmacy, a bowling alley, a hair salon, several engineering and technology businesses, a bakery and, of course, Rick’s Restaurant and Pub. Enter through the business entrance and it’s one of the doors on the right. There are no windows in the doors, so you may find yourself entering tentatively, hoping you’re in the right place.

Rick’s is like a country diner with a bar, a concept long past due. The door opens into the restaurant, but the bar, easily discernible toward the back, accommodates about eight people. Another counter seats at least four on each side, and a few pub tables on the wall between the bar and restaurant serve those who just can’t decide which room they want to be in. No matter where you choose to sit, the tidy charm of the pine log and cool green interior immediately make you feel at home. A mural covers an entire wall – a pastoral scene depicting deer in a wooded countryside. Rustic style light fixtures provide an Adirondack embellishment, while black-eyed Susans cool their toes and peek over the lip of a vase on the bar.

We found the owner, Rick Sayward, behind the bar serving beer, wine, and a hearty dose of quips and smiles. Amiable and garrulous, Rick’s cheerful presence and his obvious pleasure and pride in his pub are the main attraction. His comfort with patrons, new and old, makes each visitor feel like an invited guest.

Rick and his wife Sarah have lived in Willsboro most of their lives. When he retired from the U.S. Air Force in 1986, his dream was to one day open a hot dog stand. He did just that in 2004. In 2007, Rick’s Restaurant & Pub moved to its current location on Route 22 with an expanded menu, an Adirondack country interior, and a nod to local history with historic photographs of the local pulp mill embedded in the bar. Rick’s family has been in Willsboro for many generations and his great, great, great grandfather owned the first mill built there.

Though Rick’s doesn’t serve liquor, they offer flavored malts in bottles and even a selection of pre-packaged Seagram’s frozen cocktails including margarita, pina colada, daiquiri and sangria, with a modest selection of good draft beers and at least 15 bottled. In true noncompetitive Adirondack plaza form, the bowling alley serves liquor, but not food. Rick’s serves food, but not liquor, so patrons are free to meander from one to the other, and can stop off and use the shared restrooms in between.

Happy Hour is observed from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily and all day on Sunday, featuring a 16 oz. draft for $1.95. Particular loyalty is paid to veterans of the armed services, who are eligible to apply for Rick’s veteran’s appreciation card and enjoy special pricing on all food and drinks, all the time. A believer in giving back to those who serve, Rick’s keeps a donation jar on the bar for the Combat Vets Association, and is the major sponsor of an annual golf tournament benefiting the Wounded Warrior Project, to be held this year on July 28 at the Willsboro Golf Course.

Open seven days a week in the summer, and closed on Monday in the winter, Rick’s is open from 11:30 a.m. They close for Thanksgiving, Easter and Christmas. Rick’s Restaurant and Pub serves a menu of American cuisine, pub fare, fresh cut steaks, seafood, and sandwiches of fresh turkey, roast beef and ham. True to his hot dog stand roots, Rick proudly serves two homemade Michigan sauces for his hot dogs. Top off your meal with one of Sarah’s homemade pies and desserts.

Entertainment at Rick’s includes two TVs, Quick Draw, and the occasional hosting of the Vermont Comedy Club every few months throughout the year, sometimes as a dinner-and-a-show special. An open mic night Rick bills as “Redneck Comedy” is quite popular in Willsboro, giving the locals an opportunity to take jabs at one another, all in good fun, though we suspect you may have to be a local yourself in order to understand some of the inside jokes.

Feeling much like a neighborhood corner bar, Rick’s Restaurant and Pub is a quiet little piece of home, offering good food and drink at very reasonable prices. With a hometown disposition and a community spirit, its country charm, with the help of the character behind the bar, welcomes and invites you to stick around for a bit.

Johnny's Smokehouse and Sports Bar, Willsboro

Just when we thought we had seen the best the Adirondacks has to offer, heeeere’s Johnny’s! If it were as simple as walking in with a ten-item checklist, Johnny’s Smokehouse and Sports Bar in Willsboro would be an easy ten. It isn’t, but they do have it all, inside and out.

In its infancy, Johnny's was established by Trisha Sheehan in July, 2011 and seems well on its way to maturity. The combination of exciting and creative menu options, a wide selection of beverages, and an appealing atmosphere contribute to an overall enjoyable experience.

1)  Plenty of parking.  The parking area is large enough to handle the capacity of the bar, restaurant and patio. Although a small parking lot can make a bar look busy with just a few cars, a large parking area shows optimism and expectation.

2)  Atmosphere.  From the exterior, freshly painted stucco, appealing arched windows and entry trimmed in taupe, and a tidy entrance with hours posted. Interior gleaming in clear resin coated tables with Johnny’s logo embedded in each. Warm, cheerful hues of persimmon trimmed in a soft grey. Four large flat screen TVs strategically placed. Computer generated bulletins hang here and there, brightly colored, informative and attractive. The pub tables are amply spaced with options for two to six and room for standing as well. The bar, in alternating stripes of cherry and maple and accented with embedded casino chips, accommodates eight to ten on padded wooden stools.

3)  Entertainment.  In sports bar terms, each TV can be counted as entertainment. For those rare occasions when nothing is on, electronic darts, a jukebox and Quick Draw serve to entertain. Johnny’s features a DJ every Friday. A back wall of recovered barn board is a contrasting rustic accent and serves as a partition between bar and restaurant. Barn doors on wrought iron hinges swing open to expand the bar for occasional live music.

4)  Drink.  Five beers on tap and 30 beers, coolers, and malt beverages in bottles. Assorted wines, mixed drinks, frozen drinks, flavored vodkas. To prepare them all, a bartender named Paul. Kim selected a Vermont Switchback while Pam found a new tasty treat, the Loopy Sour, with Loopy vodka, cranberry juice and a splash of lime. Paul’s propensity for mixology is showcased with $5.00 specialties including martinis, a Grape Cosmo, Cherry Cheesecake and the Surfers’ Sunrise.

5)  Food.  Oh the food you can eat! It’s a smokehouse of meat! Offered beyond are salads, pizzas, calzones, too. Fried pickles, mac and cheese bites, burgers raised locally, homemade salad dressings, garden vegetables grown on site. For the seafood lover, crab cakes and fish and chips delight. On top of it all, they make delivery with a call. Johnny’s keeps its two smokers busy making their own smoked meats on site. The smokehouse sampler was forthcoming, which we slathered with Johnny’s homemade sauces.

6)  Hospitality.  Mr. Congeniality. Easily mistaken for the owner, Paul is one of those bartenders who knows his drinks, knows his surroundings and takes pride in what he’s doing and where he is. Won’t say it’s a rarity, but it’s refreshing. Nothing know-it-all like, but knowledgeable. When we first arrived at Johnny’s, Paul shared some of the Loopy Vodka recipes with Pam from a Three Olives recipe card. When they both wrinkled their noses at the milk based vodka recipe, a professional respect was born. Paul makes his own simple syrups, his most popular a ginger peppercorn with ginger from the house garden. He tried to give Pam his recipe, but to her it sounded too much like cooking, and her mind wandered at the mention of “heating”. Later Paul shared a margarita secret ingredient that Pam took note of, no cooking involved.  Don’t think she’ll share it until it has been tested in the lab, though.

7)  Friendly patrons.  Most patrons were enrapt in soccer or baseball games, and we were busy getting information, but we did have an opportunity to meet some newcomers. We met a couple who spend their summers in the area and also have taken on the challenge of climbing all of the Adirondack High Peaks. They shared a few suggestions on places for us to review. Fortunately, there was only one we haven’t visited, and now it’s on our list. Johnny’s has its share of diverse patrons, including locals, tourists and seasonal residents.

8)  Outdoor seating.  The patio in front of Johnny’s is ready to seat up to 24 with six tables for four.  Umbrellas are available for shade when the sun is at its highest, but a nice breeze seems to naturally flow by too. The tables are comfortably spaced for wait staff traffic and even some privacy from other patrons.

9)  Hours.  Happy Hour is offered Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 p.m. offering domestic drafts for $1.00, Shock Top and Sam Seasonal for $2.00 and well drinks for $3.00.  Three Olives martinis are available all day for $5.00.  Even the appetizers are 50% off at the bar during Happy Hour. During the summer season, Johnny’s is open 7 days a week. The restaurant is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. or later on Saturday and from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday. Bar hours are inclusive and extended beyond as needed.  During the winter season, Johnny’s is closed on Tuesdays, but you’ll find them open on the holidays.

10)  Versatility.  Not just a restaurant. Not just a sports bar. A place to go alone or meet some friends, have a drink, eat or not. Appealing to most.

Meet, greet, eat. Repeat.

Essex Inn, Essex

The town of Essex has a coastal New England charm, from the centuries old brick homes and diagonal street parking, to the waterfront buildings in colors to rival the Atlantic coast. The Essex Inn, grand in comparative scale to the federal and Greek revival style architecture that defines the hamlet, is the centerpiece of Essex. With a full-length front porch, imposing white columns and freshly painted yellow siding, the Essex Inn’s cheerful facade is warm and inviting.

Management of the 200-year-old Essex Inn was undertaken by Gladys and Josh Archer in 2010 after it was meticulously renovated and restored in a year-and-a-half-long process by Rick and Karen Dalton, who initially purchased it to house the College for Every Student (CFES) organization. The inn has taken on an authentic, historic appearance that feels timeless and original. Wood is artfully employed in countless hues and textures, with rough sawn board walls, a low, exposed beam ceiling, and softly glowing wide plank floors, finished with hand-forged replica nails. Wavy glass windows and a two-sided brick fireplace partition the tavern room from the more formal dining area. Furnishings exhibit a distinct Adirondack flair in the interior design of Delevan's Tavern. Furnishings contrast smooth polished wood with heavy handcrafted rustic creations of twisted roots, sticks and antlers. A thick pine slab bar, with seating for just four, overlooks rustic birch bark cabinetry housing the bar inventory. Wait staff, all of whom are bar trained, scurry in and out of the miniscule confines, each preparing drinks for his or her own orders. Table seating in the tavern is reminiscent of a town meeting place where one could argue politics, local and national, expound on the weather in front of the fireplace, or share gossip of local flavor.

Energetically revitalized and renewed with enthusiasm, Gladys and Josh have revived the essence of community and camaraderie within the gracious walls of the tavern as a meeting place for townspeople and visitors alike. From themed gatherings and dinner specials to Tuesday Martini Merdi, fresh and innovative ideas flourish. Gladys and Josh have been creative in making the Essex Inn the place to be in Essex all year round. Community Happy Hour on Thursdays from 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. has become an increasingly popular mainstay for the Essex Inn. Just last week, they featured a Kentucky Derby party touted to be in the finest fashion. They have offered a variety of wine tastings and cooking classes. On Fridays during the summer, the inn will feature music outside in the garden patio area, and in July and August, “afternoon tea”, encouraging a luncheon on the grass, parasols optional.

 Though diminutive in size, the bar bulges with creative capacity. A hybrid of two of her favorites, Pam couldn’t resist ordering the Margarita-tini, which was essentially a margarita in a martini glass, but painstakingly prepared with fresh ingredients, muddled with the stubby end of an antler by Alex, our server-of-the-moment. The Sinnfully Essex is a house specialty made with Chambord, vodka and a splash of cranberry juice, embellished with a sugar rim and brandy-soaked cherry. Specialty drinks are priced at around $9. Kim chose the Ubu ale from the modest but well-selected bottled beer choices that also include Stella Artois, Magic Hat, Guinness, Lake Placid IPA and Redbridge, all priced from $3 to $5. The wine selection is well-rounded with several options and ranges from house wines at $7 a glass; $27 a bottle to an assortment of reds and whites at $8 to $13 glass; $30 to $155 bottle.

The Essex Inn is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. The inn is open to guests daily with seven rooms available. If you're just having cocktails at the bar, you should have an opportunity to meet all of the staff. Each of them seemed ready and willing to try something new or share their favorite drink recipe. Gladys is a vibrant, energetic host, eager to share her obvious affection and future plans for the Essex Inn. We did not have the opportunity to meet chef and partner Josh, who seems to remain behind the scenes, ensuring that all is well managed in the kitchen. For an Adirondack experience with a New England feel, visit the Essex Inn on the Adirondack Coast, nestled between Lake Champlain and the Adirondack mountains. Try something new and be sure to wander around inside and out. One visit will not be enough.

O.P. Frederick's Restaurant and Tavern, Chestertown

Yet another gem was unearthed while mining the Adirondacks for the 46 best bars and taverns. Located at the backwater of Loon Lake near the intersection of routes 8 and 9 in Chestertown, O.P. Frederick's Restaurant and Tavern is a year-round destination highly worthy of a visit. Much of their clientele are seasonal residents of Loon Lake, snowmobilers, and skiers from Gore Mountain. Many non-seasonal locals enjoy the tavern in the off-peak seasons.

Noting the (working) phone booth as we entered the tavern on a wintry Saturday afternoon, we were greeted by the warmth of the ancient and ornate parlor stove in the corner. Though the portly cast iron stove was grand in scale, the heat was significant yet never overwhelming. The lighting and the music that played in the background were equally subtle.

Preliminary digging at O.P. Frederick’s website promised an assortment of martinis and Pam already knew she was going to try the apple, ordering immediately as Kim reviewed the beer menu. Barely able to contain her anticipation, Pam pondered whether her martini would be a green apple martini or a sweet, apple-pie-like martini. As expected, it was sour green apple in a Jolly Rancher flavor and color. She launched into the verbal design of an apple pie martini as she sipped.

Kim, equally enthused with the beer selection, decided on Brooklyn Brewery’s black chocolate stout, a Russian imperial stout, rich, dark and aromatic, revealing new and subtle flavors with each swig. In addition, Lake Placid Ubu ale and LaBatt Blue are always available on tap, along with a rotating pair of regional beers – two Magic Hat seasonals at the moment - and Blue Moon. Among the 15 bottled beers listed, Kim discovered Franziskaner Weissbier, assorted domestics, and Beck’s dark. Though not the motherlode, the beer choices are appealing and well selected. Drink prices are a little on the high end for the area, and O.P. Frederick’s does not have a Happy Hour.

We introduced ourselves to the friendly and easygoing bartender, Leana, and soon launched into a barrage of fact-finding questions. Leana has been at O.P. Frederick's for eight years. We soon discovered that our paths had crossed years before at the former Colonial Arms in Warrensburg. We briefly reminisced about mutual acquaintances from those early days in our drinking careers as Leana tended to other patrons and the wait staff.

Though the tavern at O.P. Frederick's has an official capacity of 40 persons, the bar itself seats eight. Three pub tables along the wall can accommodate nine more and a wall bar toward the back has seating for four. Two TVs are strategically located for watching whatever big game may be on. A modest deck out back offers picnic table seating in warmer months, overlooking the backwater edge of Loon Lake. Plaid tablecloths adorn the dining tables, with matching valances on the windows. A pair of snowshoes, mounted fish and game trophies and wildlife prints grace the pine walls, but we were more captivated by old black-and-white photographs and the nostalgic 1950's era framed Winchester Rifle posters depicting a winter scene with a rabbit and another of a deer in flight.

O.P. Frederick's is a restaurant and tavern and also offers accommodations at the adjacent Alp Horn Motel featuring five units. The complex has been owned by Robert and Vivian Frederick for the past 20 years, but the location has plenty of history as the Loon Lake Colony before that. We had an opportunity to meet Bob Frederick (wearing cargo shorts on this January day) during our visit and found him to be a very gracious host, proud of his establishment and eager to share history and memorabilia.

The dinner menu includes appetizers (smoked trout and duck burritos among them) from $5.99 to $9.95. Entrees from seafood and steaks to sandwiches and pasta range from $6.95 for a basic burger to $24.95 for surf and turf. Dinner and drink specials such as early bird and $5.00 burgers are featured throughout the week, and coupons can be retrieved and printed from their website. Show your Gore Mountain ski pass and get 10% off your meal. The tavern and restaurant open at 4 p.m. with dinner served until 9 p.m. The bar closes between 11 p.m. and 1 a.m. depending on the season. O.P. Frederick's is closed on Mondays all year. They are known to close up for a few weeks or the whole month of December and again in April.

O.P. Frederick’s is a warm, congenial place with affable and welcoming patrons. Whether prospecting for food, drink, or both, you’ll find a vein of hometown friendliness, good food and a variety of liquid refreshment.

Deer's Head Inn, Elizabethtown

The Deer’s Head Inn, according to the sign in front, was established in 1806, though its current location is not the original. Fire, reconstruction, relocation and renaming have all taken place in the past two hundred years. What remains is a charming inn, owned by JoAnne and Matthew Baldwin since 2006, bursting with history. We entered through the front door, into the intimate tavern, and were at once greeted with a sense of comfort, familiarity and warmth. We took a seat at the tiny bar, tucked neatly into a snug little nook in the back of the small room.

Our initial impression on entering the pub area of the Deer's Head Inn was that it was more a destination than a neighborhood restaurant, and it may well be, but the patrons all seemed to know one another, exchanging greetings and news as they came and went. The courthouse and municipal building across the street may be the main attraction luring visitors (willing or not) into E’Town. The Adirondack Northway routed travelers away long ago and the GPS has since taken most of those who may have inadvertently meandered through. Maps are simply lines in a cold, two-dimensional space. The GPS does its job, efficiently calculating time and distance; but it is the populace that gives a mere pinpoint its third dimension. People fill a space and give it history, personality, warmth and life. Does your GPS know that two presidents stayed here, as did John Brown's widow? Will it show you their signatures in the inn’s guest registers? Locate Ben Stetson's Prohibition stash?

Though a sign over the bar boasts "Martini Lounge", Cosmopolitans are a house specialty at the Deer’s Head as the array of more than a dozen flavored vodkas attests. Pam decided on a Maple Manhattan, with Maker's Mark whisky and local maple syrup. The beer lineup contains a few interesting choices including St. Pauli Girl, Amstel Light, Newcastle Brown Ale, Lake Placid Ubu Ale, Stella Artois, Kaliber (non alcohol from Guinness), and Wild Blue (a blueberry lager produced by Anheuser-Busch) and several domestic brands. Two regional craft brews (currently Magic Hat Howl and VT Switchback) are always available on tap.

The Deer's Head Inn is open from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. and serves lunch until 2:30; dinner from 5 p.m. until 8 or 9 p.m. Hours vary so be sure to check times on their website. They offer an extensive wine list, with prices by the glass from $5.00 to $8.00 or they can be purchased by the bottle. The Inn consists of three dining rooms, each with its own characteristics, and although the bar only seats six, there seemed to be ample room for standing. The bar top has old postcards of Elizabethtown attractions safely held in time under layers of "glaze". From the bar, an old oak phone booth, with original Bell Telephone insignia and beveled glass, can be seen in the hallway. Our bartender, Joyce, laughingly advised that the booth is reserved as her "office".

Though perhaps more often a service bar for the restaurant, the pub at Deer's Head Inn is an intimate place for quiet conversation, reflecting on the past, or escaping the crowds of Lake Placid. Joyce seems to enjoy having company at the bar, adding interest beyond serving drinks to diners she might never see. You'll be welcome whether just stopping in for a drink or whetting your appetite before a good meal. Next time you're heading to Lake Placid, be sure to set your GPS "via" point to Elizabethtown along the way.

The sun’s daytime shift had already ended when we arrived, so we were not able to photograph the Deer’s Head Inn’s exterior. Not wanting to intrude on the privacy of the patrons in the busy tavern, we abstained inside as well. Photos were obtained at the Deer’s Head Inn’s website.

The Glenmore Bar and Grill, Big Moose

As we traveled the six miles down Big Moose Road to the Glenmore Bar and Grill, we noticed it was populated with summer camps right down to Big Moose Lake. Perplexed by the distinct absence of people on this beautiful summer day in July, we pulled in to the mostly deserted parking lot. Given that it was early afternoon, possibly everyone was out pursuing summer pleasures on the lake or in town at Eagle Bay.

A two-story shingled structure flanked by ancient pines at the water's edge, dormers peek out from above. With a spacious deck overlooking the lake, the Glenmore exudes history. We passed through the entrance doors to the main floor which houses the restaurant and bar, immediately encountering historic memorabilia and postings at the main entrance. Gleaming pine booths lined a sunny dining area, partially separated from the dining room and bar. Ivy wandered, taking over the room, repeated in stenciled embellishment over the windows. Sunlight streamed through picture windows, competing with rustic hues and textures for control of the lighting. At once dark and light, the hardwood floor, low pine plank ceiling, rough-sawn slab walls painted in tones of sage and brown, and simple pine booths were softly illuminated by daylight. A couple of well-worn plaid sofas faced the stone fireplace, the focal point of the center of the restaurant. A game room and pool table are available for use, but the Glenmore seems to be a venue for long stories and general banter.

The bar, with its panoramic view of the lake, seats 15 to 20 people. A handful of guests intently watched a soccer game as we introduced ourselves, and our purpose, to the bartender. Beer selection is primarily domestic, mostly from the Anheuser Busch and Matt’s brewing families. Canned beers (14 of them) include Utica Club and Genesee. Very retro. As Pam sat at the bar trying to decide what to order from the standard selection of liquors, she noticed that every one of the bar pours on the liquor bottles was not only the same color (green), but were all pointing in the same “wrong” direction. We have been to a lot of bars and have never seen either phenomenon. Not willing to let it go on observation, she mentioned to the bartender that he might have difficulties if he hired a left-handed bartender. Promising that would never happen, he smiled graciously and changed the subject, but seemed pleased that his efforts were noticed. We did take the time to inquire if the Glenmore had any specialty drinks unique to the establishment. Robert shared the ingredient list of the Flaming Glenmore, consisting of coffee, Yukon Jack, Amaretto and whipped cream.

It took some time for him to loosen up, but owner/bartender Robert Muller eventually warmed to our inquisition. He told us of a writers’ group that, for the past 36 years, meets at the Glenmore. Robert is of the opinion that some may no longer write, but continue to enjoy each other's company, spending a weekend there every year under the auspices of the Tamarack Writers Group. (For the record, he did not use the word "auspices".)

Kim inquired about hauntings, particularly in the death of Grace Brown in 1906. Grace and her companion, Chester Gillette, had checked in to the Glenmore the night before her demise, which she met at the hands of Gillette while rowing out on the lake. Several locations around Big Moose Lake claim to be haunted by her presence, and the television series Unsolved Mysteries aired an episode based on ghostly encounters in Big Moose in 1996. Robert also mentioned the apparition of a “creepy, tall, old dude” who occasionally makes his presence known.

The Glenmore Hotel Bar & Grill has been in business for 100 years and owned by the current owners, the Muller family, since the 1970s. When a fire of suspicious origin destroyed the original hotel in 1950, the Glenmore Hotel relocated across the street to its present location, originally home to the Big Moose Supply Company. A bar, restaurant and hotel located yards from Big Moose Lake, you can feel the history as you gaze upon the lake from the bar.

In summer months, the Glenmore is open Monday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. and noon to 1 a.m. on weekends. Closed Monday through Thursday in the fall and spring, they are open Friday through Sunday. Surprisingly, to us at least, Robert, who likes winter best, claims that winter is the best season to visit. Winter hours at the Glenmore begin with opening for the Snodeo, occurring this year December 9-11, and end with St. Patrick’s Day. The no-nonsense menu includes pizzas, salads, burgers, sandwiches and bar munchies in the $7 to $10 range.

The hotel has 11 rooms accommodating up to 24 people. Rooms are simple, unique and comfortable with few amenities. Two full and one half bath are shared by all the guests. They have no WiFi, no cell service either, but a phone booth outside actually appeared to still be in service. History, a remote setting, simple charm, and circumspect hospitality await guests and visitors to the Glenmore Bar and Grill.

Cheers & Bottoms Up!
Kim & Pam